Meta CEO Mark Zuckerberg has once again sparked curiosity, this time with his choice of wristwear, showcasing a timepiece that seamlessly blends innovation and luxury. While unveiling Meta’s latest AI model, Llama 3.3, his ultra-thin Bulgari watch equally shared the spotlight, leaving netizens intrigued by its design and engineering marvel.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is the thinnest mechanical watch ever made that combines innovation, precision, and luxury in a package thinner than two stacked credit cards.
This groundbreaking timepiece showcases the artistry of horology and highlights the intense competition among luxury brands to push the limits of design and functionality. Its thickness of just 1.7mm sets a benchmark in watchmaking and sparks curiosity about the extraordinary processes and technology behind its creation.
In an interaction with indianexpress.com, Mehul Bhagwani, a watch enthusiast and digital growth marketer, delves into the meticulous artistry and ingenuity behind this remarkable creation.
Primary challenges
Bhagwani explains. “Creating something like the Octo Finissimo Ultra isn’t just about shrinking parts — it’s about completely rethinking how a watch is built. Traditional movements stack components vertically, but that approach doesn’t work in something this thin. Bulgari had to go horizontal, spreading the components across a flat plane.”
“And then there’s the matter of strength,” he adds, mentioning that parts as thin as 0.1mm are inherently fragile, so every tiny piece has to be engineered to handle wear and tear. Misalignment is another risk when structural supports are minimised. Precision isn’t just important — it’s critical.
How does COSC certification complicate things further?
Achieving COSC certification means the watch has to keep time to within -4/+6 seconds per day. “For a watch this thin, that’s a monumental challenge. With less material, there’s less stability, which makes the movement more sensitive to shocks, temperature changes, and general wear,” notes Bhagwani.
He informs that Bulgari had to optimise the BVL Calibre 180 movement — essentially reworking how the components interact to ensure stability. “It’s micro-engineering at its finest, balancing the need for accuracy with the constraints of the ultra-thin design.”
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The role of materials like titanium and sapphire crystal
These materials are the backbone of the Octo Finissimo Ultra, highlights Bhagwani. “Titanium is lightweight, durable, and modern-looking with its sandblasted finish. It’s the perfect choice for a case and bracelet that need to be thin but tough enough for daily wear,” he says.
Sapphire crystal, used on the dial and caseback, adds scratch resistance and structural integrity without adding bulk. These materials allow the watch to be feather-light yet durable, proving that thin doesn’t mean fragile.
With a thickness of just 1.7mm, it sets a benchmark in watchmaking and sparks curiosity about the extraordinary processes and technology behind its creation. (Source: Instagram/BVLGARI Official)
How does such innovation affect the watch industry?
Bhagwani remarks, “The Octo Finissimo Ultra is more than a technical achievement—it’s a statement. It’s forced the watchmaking world to rethink what’s possible. Other brands now have to consider how they can push boundaries in thinness, materials, and movement design.”
This trend isn’t just about aesthetics, according to Bhagwani; it’s about celebrating the engineering behind minimalism. “Watches like this show that luxury isn’t just about gold and diamonds; it’s about mastery, innovation, and daring to do what hasn’t been done before,” he stresses.
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The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC isn’t just a watch. It’s a bold declaration that horology can be both art and science—and that even in something as small as a wristwatch, there’s room to break records and redefine possibilities.
