Spring/Summer 2027 will be all about blending styles. While Louis Vuitton blended the dandy with the surfer the day before, the Ami brand has created surprising combinations of pieces designed to liberate Parisian silhouettes through more fluid lines and structures freed from their restrictive conventions.
It’s worth remembering that a year ago, Alexandre Mattiussi presented an open and romantic interpretation of Parisian chic for Spring/Summer 2026, set in a public space (the Place des Victoires) with fluid silhouettes and lightweight fabrics aimed at a delicately sophisticated elegance. The Fall/Winter 2026/27 collection, presented in January, offered a more focused and refined approach, centered on precise proportions, clean lines, and masterful tailoring, resulting in a collection where the garments were stripped of any spectacular effects. The following season seems to have taken the opposite approach.
The fashion show took place on Boulevard Raspail, in the imposing building that, until last year, housed the Fondation Cartier. This glass-enclosed complex, designed by architect Jean Nouvel and inaugurated in 1994, was built around a pre-existing garden, notably featuring a large cedar tree that dominates the grounds. This approach echoed that of Ami, who builds his collections around moments in life. “Both the most significant and the most ordinary,” Mattiussi emphasized in the invitation.
The problem with a completely transparent building is that it quickly turns into a tropical greenhouse under a blazing sun, with temperatures already reaching 39°C outside. From Catherine Deneuve to Clotilde Courau, including Japanese actor Shuzo Ohira and Korean singer Choi Jong-ho, each guest was therefore provided with a fan bearing the brand’s logo, while a constant stream of waitstaff offered water. Or, for those seeking more than just hydration, three cocktails offered a taste of the season’s colors.
The first part of the show playfully paired Ami’s iconic ruby red with black and blue—sometimes cobalt, sometimes sky blue. The surprise came from the silhouettes themselves: short and long swim shorts were paired with gleaming loafers, and especially with jacket, shirt, and tie ensembles—or even sand-colored trench coats—while one model wore a shirt and tie layered under a low-cut dress with thin straps.
But the brand didn’t limit itself to mixing and matching pieces; it also played with matte and glossy effects, which energized the rest of the collection, where the mix-and-match approach was less extreme. Technical fabrics sat alongside poplin, fine wool, and silk. In a palette accented by red, blue, ochre, powder pink, and green, stripes alternated between vertical and horizontal, while skirts and dresses were adorned with translucent, reflective discs, paired with three-tone striped polo shirts.
“Driven by optimism, the warmth of memories, and the energy of the faces that inspire it, the collection affirms that clothing should never be restrictive,” explained Mattiussi.
The third movement of this ode to eclecticism featured a palette ranging from off-white to yellow—sometimes rendered golden by striking reflections—that transcended trench coats and flowing pants. But the show concluded with light, uniform looks, featuring denim jackets, pencil skirts, teddy jackets, duster coats, and shirts with military-style pockets. Since white can reflect heat, Ami will face the heat wave of summer 2027 in style.
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