Feathers hotel celebrates the Tamil flavours in a pop-up curated by celebrated Singaporean Chef Devagi Sanmugam

As a Tamilian born and raised in Singapore, 69-year-old Chef Devagi Sanmugam, connects to her roots through the rich aromatic world of spices. In Chennai to curate Ayalagam, a food festival that celebrates Tamil flavours from Singapore and Malaysia, Devagi shares her culinary journey and how she blends tradition with innovation.

“The title resonated with me deeply, and I could instantly connect to the theme,” she says with a smile. Her story begins with her father, Chandrakasan, who migrated to Singapore from Mayavaram in Tamil Nadu. He worked at a Tamil newspaper and later married Anjalai, whose mother, Nagammal, was raised in Indonesia. “So I became familiar with Southeast Asian cooking cultures early on in life,” says Devagi.

Thenga pal sadham pottalam
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Special Arrangement

“In Singapore we have four major ethnic groups, Chinese, Malay, Indians and others. So we grow up exposed to spices from all over Asia,” she says. Over time, these influences began to appear in Tamil cooking. “For example, we now use soy sauce in mutton and fish dishes and add Sichuan pepper to enhance heat.”

Known for her creative take on traditional food, Devagi is not afraid to experiment. “I prepare the vada dough and cook it in a waffle-maker to create vada waffles. I have also compressed thengapal sadham into a cake-like form and plated it with karuvadu kari around it,” she says, showing how Tamil food can be reimagined without losing its soul.

Parotta with accompaniments
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Special Arrangement

Chef Devagi points out that while many spices are shared across Asian cuisines, kalpasi (black stone flower, dry, brittle and dark coloured lichen), is uniquely South Indian. “It is especially prominent in Chettinad cuisine and imparts a deep, intense, smoky flavour that is hard to replicate,” she says. Another favourite is thalippu vadagam, a traditional seasoning blend made from sun-dried spices and aromatics and onions. ”It adds a distinctive flavour to kulambu and thokku, and I use it creatively in dips and chutney, to highlight its versatility. Among all the spices she works with, mustard holds a special place. “It is my favourite because it transforms a dish the moment we garnish it in hot oil.”

Our meal at Sangamithrai starts with six dips accompanied by crisp rice wafers. Each dip showcased a unique flavour profile, but the standout is the curry leaf aioli, that lingers on the palate. A close second is the Calamansi Chilli Sauce, which packes a tangy punch thanks to the citrusy notes of calamansi, a Southeast Asian variety of lime. With our palates awakened by this array of flavours, we are served a refreshing Pudalangai Salad. Raw snake gourd is combined with cherry tomatoes and julienned carrots, tossed in a light dressing of lemon juice and ginger juice and salt, and finished with a sprinkle of fresh coconut shavings.

Desserts inspired by Tamil and Asian cuisines
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Special Arrangement

The thenga sadham pottalam features mildly spiced coconut milk rice carefully wrapped in a banana leaf along with chicken sambal, sweet and sour chutney, stir fried bitter gourd, fried chicken and mutton chukka. The pottalam (meaning package) is then tied with a string and grilled on a tawa, allowing the flavours to meld together. As we untie the leaf parcel, the aroma wafts up, rich with coconut milk and ghee. The interplay of bitter, sweet, sour and spicy elements made for a harmonious and visually stunning dish. It is best enjoyed the traditional way, with your fingers, no cutlery.

We are then served the vendhaya chicken, a signature creation by Chef Devagi. “No one would think to throw in a handful of roasted fenugreek in to a semi-gravy chicken dish,” she says with a smile, adding that, “The bitter and nutty taste of the fenugreek goes well with the chicken dish made in South Indian style.” And, she is right. The roasted fenugreek added a deep, aromatic bitterness that complemented the South Indian-style chicken perfectly.

Chef Devagi and Chef Murthi
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Special Arrangement

Immensely impressed by the pottalam experience, we get ready for dessert: Maravalli Kizhangu (tapioca) Halwa and Pandan Idiappam with Vazhai Pazham Sauce. While both are intriguing, it is the former that truly stands out. The tapioca halwa is comforting and nostalgic. Cooked tapioca is grated, infused with ghee and aromatic spices, then gently steamed and shaped like round cutlets. Served warm, with a generous sprinkling of fresh coconut shavings, it is delicate on the palate.

With Ayalagam, Chef Devagi not only brings the tastes of her heritage to Chennai but also demonstrates how tradition can evolve without being lost.

At Sangamithrai Restaurant, Feathers Hotel. On till June 8. Lunch and dinner. Vegetarian (₹2,500) and Non-vegetarian (₹3,000). There are five rotating menus. For reservations, call 7823977825