Ritu Beri needs no introduction. A pioneer of Indian fashion, she launched her eponymous label in 1990 and was the first Indian designer to showcase at Paris Haute Couture Week in 1999. In 2001, Beri made history again as the first Asian to helm the French fashion house Scherrer. With a career spanning over three decades, collaborations with international brands, and a clientele that includes royalty, Hollywood icons, and global dignitaries, Ritu Beri has remained a timeless force in the fashion world.
Now, at 52, Beri embarks on a new chapter with ESCAPE Goa, a multi-brand, multi-functional boutique housed in a renovated 200-year-old Portuguese villa. Painted in her signature bold red-and-white palette, the space embodies her “Punjabi Rock and Roll” aesthetic—a fusion of kitschy pop art and ornate baroque flourishes. But beyond being just a boutique, ESCAPE is envisioned as an immersive lifestyle destination.
In an exclusive conversation with indianexpress.com, Beri reflected on her journey, the evolution of Indian fashion, her latest venture, and the ever-blurring line between cultural appreciation and appropriation. Read the edited excerpts below:
Q. Over 30 years in fashion—how would you describe your journey?
Ritu Beri: It’s been an extraordinary adventure—spanning continents, cultures, and creative expressions. From Paris to Dubai, Cairo to Mauritius, every experience shaped my evolution as a designer. What started as a childhood dream became a lifelong passion driven by an endless desire to push boundaries. Through the highs and lows, fashion has been my language and life itself, my muse. The journey is far from over—there’s always another story to tell, another dream to chase.
Q. Despite fresh talent dominating the fashion scene, you are still counted among the best. What’s the secret to your relevance?
Ritu Beri: Fashion changes, but style endures. My success lies in my ability to blend tradition with innovation, staying true to craftsmanship while constantly reinventing. I don’t just follow trends—I create them, weaving narratives that are timeless yet relevant. Passion, attention to detail, and a deep connection with culture have kept my designs meaningful and ahead of the curve. More than anything, I believe in evolving without losing essence—and that’s what makes all the difference.
Q. Tell us about your new venture and its conceptualization.
Ritu Beri: ESCAPE is an experience. I wanted to create a space where art, design, and culture converge in the most immersive way. Goa, with its free-spirited energy, was the perfect backdrop. At ESCAPE, you feel, connect, and live the stories behind every creation. It’s about breaking away from the ordinary and stepping into a space that celebrates individuality, artistry, and the beauty of self-expression.
Q. Why Goa, and not Delhi, Mumbai, or emerging cultural hubs like Pune or Indore?
Ritu Beri: Goa has a soul unlike any other place. It’s laid-back yet vibrant, raw yet refined—a melting pot of cultures, creativity, and freedom. While big cities pulse with energy, Goa breathes inspiration. It allows art to exist in its purest form, free from the fast-paced frenzy. I wanted ESCAPE to be in a place where time slows down and where people can truly engage with fashion, design, and culture without distractions. Goa was that place.
Q. You’ve dressed some of the world’s most influential personalities. Who do you think embodies your designs best?
Ritu Beri: I’ve been fortunate to dress iconic figures—from global leaders like Bill Clinton and Prince Charles to Hollywood stars like Nicole Kidman and Andie MacDowell, and Bollywood legends like Akshay Kumar, Madhuri Dixit and Katrina Kaif. But for me, the best muse is someone who wears a design not just as an outfit, but as an extension of their personality.
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In 2001, Ritu Beri became the first Asian to helm the French fashion house Scherrer. (Photo: PR handout)
Q. How would you describe your style?
Ritu Beri: Feminine, romantic, with a touch of flamboyance. It’s about celebrating individuality, playing with contrasts, and adding an unexpected twist to the classics. Style, for me, is about how you carry yourself and not only about what you wear.
Q. What is your take on the relevance of fashion shows today?
Ritu Beri: Fashion shows are pure magic! They’re not just about clothes but about storytelling, emotion, and the sheer artistry behind every piece. While the digital world has opened new avenues, nothing replaces the energy of a live runway. It’s where a designer’s vision comes alive, where every detail, from the fabric to the music, creates a world of its own. The essence of fashion shows will always remain—it just keeps evolving.
Q. You have also had celebs showcasing your creations at fashion shows. Which side are you on in the debate about celebrity showstoppers vs. models?
Ritu Beri: Both bring something unique to the runway. Celebrities bring star power and a connection with the audience, while models bring the discipline and grace to truly showcase the craftsmanship. It’s all about balance—some collections demand the glamour of a celebrity, while others shine through the artistry of professional models. At the end of the day, the focus should always be on fashion.
Q. In recent years, fashion has come under scrutiny for cultural appropriation. How do you ensure your work stays on the right side of appreciation?
Ritu Beri: Fashion should celebrate cultures, not exploit them. For me, it’s about honouring craftsmanship, telling authentic stories, and respecting traditions. When you truly understand and appreciate a culture, it reflects in your work with integrity. The key is to create from a place of knowledge and respect and not just aesthetics.
Q. A personality you would love to dress, why, and how?
Ritu Beri: Maharani Gayatri Devi—a vision of grace, power, and effortless elegance. She redefined fashion with her poise, and I’d love to reimagine her style by blending heritage with modernity. A flowing chiffon saree, but with an unexpected edge—perhaps handcrafted leather detailing, symbolising strength and sophistication. Minimal yet exquisite jewelry to enhance, not overpower. The result? Timeless, regal, and subtly rebellious—just like her. Dressing her would be an homage to a woman who was both a queen and a trailblazer.
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Q. One fashion trend you never understood, and one you wish would make a comeback?
Ritu Beri: I’ve never quite connected with the fast-fashion frenzy—the constant churn of micro-trends that lack depth and originality. Style should be more than just a momentary obsession. As for comebacks? Vintage glamour! Think perfectly tailored 50s silhouettes, structured dresses, and the elegance that stands the test of time. Some things never go out of style, and I’d love to see that effortless sophistication take center stage again.