In the bustling streets near the Meenakshi Amman Temple, a small shop continues to draw crowds, just as it has done for generations. The Aathi Kalathu Original Nei Mittai Kadai, which is more than 130 years old, is easy to spot near Pudumandapam thanks to its red board. Inside, shelves and the trays are filled with sweets and savouries that have been sold here for decades.
People buying and tasting halwa at Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai near Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
S Narasiman Sundaresan, who currently runs the shop, says the place was started by his forefather, G Muthuswamy Chettiar. It was later run by his son, M Rajamanickam, and, in the 1950s, by N Sundaresan, a close relative and Narasiman’s father. Over the years, the family has kept one aspect unchanged — the taste. “We have not added new items just because they are popular now,” says Narasiman.
The spicy cone-shaped pottalam at Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai near Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
He has seen many old sweet shops change over the years. Shops that once sold only sweets and savouries have become bakeries, with cakes, bread, buns, ice cream, cold drinks and several other items on their shelves.
“Earlier, a sweet shop was only for traditional sweets and snacks. Now everything is available in the same place,” he says.
Wheat halwa at Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai near Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
At his shop, the old favourites are still there. Wheat halwa is one of the most popular sweets. Thirattu paal halwa, made with milk and ghee, is also popular, especially among younger customers.
For customers who come to the shop, tasting halwa before buying is part of the experience. A small sample of wheat halwa is served on a mantharai leaf. It looks glossy and soft, with the aroma of ghee coming through even before the first bite. A small spoonful melts in the mouth, with the sweetness and ghee coming together well. It is slightly chewy too, almost like a soft piece of chocolate.
Next comes the thirattu paal halwa, also served in a mantharai leaf. It is softer and is almost semi-liquid. It does not have the chewiness of wheat halwa; instead, it feels smooth and delicate. One is rich and chewy, while the other is milky and smooth. With different textures and flavours, each dessert has its own set of fans.
Thirattu paal halwa at Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai near Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
Then there is nei mittai, made with crushed groundnuts, jaggery and ghee. Wrapped like a candy, it is a favourite not only among youngsters but also among older customers. Narasiman says it has become particularly popular over the past six years.
Crispy ginger pakoda at Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai near Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
They also have savouries such as murukku, mixture and ginger pakoda. . But one snack comes with a story of its own — pottalam, a spicy preparation made with small onions and chillies. It is packed in a small cone of mantharai leaf, a practice the shop has followed for many years. The traditional way of packing the snack is also said to be the reason nehind its name.
Sweet boondhi at Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai near Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
For Narasiman, the snack brings back memories of the neighbourhood from the 1980s, when there was a vegetable market near the shop. People from different parts of Madurai and its neighbouring towns would come to the market early in the morning. Many packed food such as rice kanji from home, and would sit around the area to have breakfast.
“They would buy spicy pottalam to pair with curd rice and kanji, a tasty combination,” he says.
That is how pottalam became a familiar part of the morning crowd. The market may have changed, but the snack continues to be made at the shop.
Traditional mysore pak at Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai near Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
There is also a routine to the way each snack is prepared here. Work begins at around 6 or 7am every day. Wheat is soaked and processed before it is used to make the halwa. The sweets and savouries are prepared fresh in ghee for the day.
The shop also gets orders for family functions. Wheat halwa and boondhi are often ordered for events such as baby showers. With Gokula Ashtami approaching, the shop has already started receiving festival orders.
Juicy jelabi at Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai near Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
For a shop that has been around for more than 130 years, the family has kept things simple. While they refrain from adding new items to the menu, Narasiman says that if customers ask for something new, they will definitely make it.
Crunchy murukku at Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai near Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
And customers do keep coming back. Some come for a packet of nei mittai, while others buy their favourite halwa, boondhi, ginger pakoda or a parcel of savouries.
The streets around the shop may be busier now, and people’s food habits may have changed. But the Aathi Kalathu Original Nei Mittai Kadai still draws people looking for the familiar and comforting sweets and savouries.
Located at East Avani Moola Street, opposite the Nandhi statue, Madurai. Call 9487180422
Published – August 20, 2026 11:41 pm IST
