The table is set at Kesar Bagh
| Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Some dishes require reverence. And that is what the Kakori kebab and sheermal get at Kesar Bagh. As I cut pieces of the delicate lamb kebab and pop them into my mouth, time stands still, the music fades and all I feel is the kind of joy that only an impeccable dish can bring out. Then, I tear into the saffron-rich, mildly sweet sheermal and it is time to write a paean to this classic combination. While the size of the Kakori is intimidatingly long, it is effortlessly polished off in under three minutes.
Kesar Bagh is the new poster kid in Goa’s bustling F&B scene. Started by Chef Azaan Qureshi, it serves Awadhi cuisine. Azaan comes from the lineage of Padma Shri awardee Chef Imtiaz Qureshi who is known to have started Bukhara in 1978 and Dum Pukht in 1988 at ITC Maurya, Delhi, the latter along with Chef Ghulam Qureshi (Azaan’s father). Azaan learnt the finer nuances of this cuisine from his grandfather and father and was also associated with ITC hotels for 15 years, before starting his first flagship property in Goa in April this year.
His new outpost draws inspiration from Lucknow’s Qaiser Bagh, a palace complex built by Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Awadh. “In Awadhi cuisine, it’s not just the masalas but the dum technique that is special. It makes even less spices seem more complex in the longer process,” explains Azaan, adding, “The kebabs melt in your mouth. The Kakori has been perfected over 30-50 years using a technique called galawat, where we use raw papaya that has an enzyme which tenderises meat.”
Kakori kebab
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
Gurugram was the original location for this property. But when Azaan and his business partner Priyank Sukhija, CEO and managing director of First Fiddle F&B, stumbled upon what they call “the perfect property” in Goa, they had a change of heart. Kesar Bagh is housed in a renovated 180-year-old Portuguese bungalow that can seat 120 guests across its indoor and two large al fresco dining areas. A courtyard with a marble fountain strewn with rose petals welcomes you, followed by Kesar, the outdoor bar. The bartender whips up a summer quencher in the form of Mango Kesar Spritzer, a refreshing drink that heralds the start of mango season across the country.
The restaurant, spread across half an acre, follows a light salmon pink and teal colour scheme. Certain elements like the doors from the last century are still intact. Each room opens into another, with different seating layouts and décor. For example, the room where we dine has walls vibrant with paintings by Thota Vaikuntam and olden day accessories mounted onto frames. One of the other rooms has walls lined with mirrors. And from the high tiled roof hang chandeliers. The only aspect sticking out like a sore thumb is the bulky grey speakers that take away from the vibe the place is going for. But that is not really my concern. I am only focussed on what is on my table — takka paisa kebab that has mashed potato wedged between roundels of cottage cheese. Sounds deceptively simple but needs to be done with precision so all the three components stay together as one while being pan-grilled. Interestingly, takka paisa is the name of a technique used to make kebabs.
The harra kebab Awadhi made with spinach and Bengal gram has a surprise hiding inside. When you cut into it, it reveals a surprise centre of roasted cashews and khoya. Something, I never expected when I saw the staid green kebab on my plate. Next up, creamy, melt in the mouth murgh chandi tikka. Wrapped in edible silver foil, it looks like it escaped the Met Gala afterparty. The other starters like mahi gomti (escallops of red snapper) and labgeer kebab (beetroot and lentils) put up a good fight but fail to secure a podium finish like the rest.
The interiors
I wash it all down with my Picante, starring curry leaves, and a hint of spice that is balanced by the mild sweetness of fragrant elderflower. For main course, it is gucchi-subz-e-zar and dal ma qureshi with hazari naan and doodh garlic naan (yes, you read that right!) that is kneaded with curd, milk and cheese. The jumbo sized gucchi is succulent and filled with a bit of clotted cream and potato and cooked with spring onion and pepper in a salan-like gravy. “This dish celebrates morels. My grandfather incorporated gucchi into his Indian cooking after being inspired by French restaurants,” he says. The dal is easily outperformed by the morel gravy, which is a rare verdict from me, given I am such a black dal fan. The hazari naan meanwhile is a delight. It peels off in crisp layers and has the flavour of ajwain. You do not even need an accompaniment with it.
How can one go for an Awadhi meal and not try dum biryani? I get a whiff of it even before it is served. The biryani is light and redolent with rose water and saffron, punctuated with perfectly cooked pieces of baby goat. This one is truly a dish fit for royalty. A short walk later — to loosen my belt — I am back for a sweet ending. Shahed-e-jam, a large gulab jamun (as big as my palm) stuffed with honey, pistachio and saffron awaits. While this has nothing to write home about, the kulfi falooda — smooth, with a creamy texture and just the right amount of sweetness — is as perfect as its name: lab-e-mashooq.
For Azaan, this restaurant is an opportunity to not just give diners a taste of authentic Awadhi cuisine but also take them through the different techniques, history, and terms like kebabchi. Awadhi food has reached Tokyo and New York but Azaan wants to further its reach in the country. “If I don’t do, who will?” he smiles.
Kesar Bagh is located at 5, Saunto Waddo, Anjuna Mapusa Road, Assagao, Goa. Meal for two: ₹4,000
Published – June 05, 2026 05:23 pm IST
